A kapuk megnyílnak – Galungan és Kuningan
Galungan és Kuningan ünnepe van az Istenek Szigetén, és mi éppen most értünk fel az itteni művészetek völgyébe: Ubudba. Galungan az a nap, amikor megnyílnak a világok közötti átjárók. A millió kapuk országában nem csak a földi, hanem az égi kapuk is kinyílnak, az ősök és a szellemek visszatérnek tíz napra. Egészen Kuningan napjáig, amikor minden visszatér a „rendes kerékvágásba” – vagyis az átjárók bezárulnak. Röviden és velősen nagyjából ez a lényege ennek a két hindu vallási ünnepnek, de ez aligha mondja el, hogy valójában Galungankor a Dharma győzelmét is ünneplik az ördögi erők felett.
Miközben ezt írom, idejött egy kis balinéz hölgy a családból, akinél a szállásunk van – és füstölőt gyújtott kisházunk oltárán, a bejáratunk előtt apró rizs- és virágáldozatot helyezett ki. Szirmokkal vizet hintett rá, s magában mantrát mondott. Rám mosolygott és azt mondta: mert Galungan van. Egyébként is megteszik ezt napjában többször, de a készülődés már napok óta érezhető. Nem csak itt és nem csak az álmainkban.
Két nappal ezelőtt bejártuk az Ubud feletti dzsungelt és rizsföldeket, nem messze a Gunung Kawitól – a költők hegyétől. Az erdő mélyén rituális fürdőt vettek éppen a helyiek. A szent víz: az agama tirtha vallásuk legfontosabb eleme – vagyis a megtisztulás eszköze és része. Másnap láthattuk, ahogy a legong táncelőadás előtt, az ubudi palota gamelán zenészeit is meghinti egy bölcs elefánt járásával érkező, vénségesen vén, de gyönyörű asszony. E vallás, amely egyet jelent a balinéz élettel, középpontba helyezte a vizet és a megtisztulást. Indulás előtt lettem Hegyi barátom fiának, Hunor Attilának a keresztapja. A nem éppen keresztény, hanem sokkal inkább ősi, magyar nevű keresztfiamat szenteltvízzel hintette meg a plébános. Vállaltam keresztényi nevelését, barátom, vagyis édesapja segítését, amennyiben ez más vallások tiszteletben tartását is jelenti. Minden út ugyanoda vezet, de Isten Városát nem feltétlenül és csak Rómának hívhatják. Sőt! Mi vagyunk Isten Városának lakói – balinéz vagy magyar, hindu vagy keresztény – teljesen mindegy. Az Ő örök szemszögéből minden élet szent, minden ima szent, minden templom szent és minden hit – belévetett való hit: igaz és tiszta. Őt imádják a mecsetben, a zsinagógákban, a kápolnában, sőt a sztúpáknál is. Ő az, akinek mi mind a részei vagyunk és Ő a fény és az élet mibennünk. Belőle keletkezett a világ, felé törekszünk és belé fogunk merülni is. Ő a Bhagavad Gíta Krsnája, Ő a sámánok Tengrije, és a Biblia Istene. Ő maga a Dharma és a Taó, és ő a kvantumfizika és a valódi költészet. Ő lakik a leheletben, ő az igaz borban és kenyérben. Ő adja a születést és ő fogad a halálban. Őrá ébredsz a szépben és az igazban, ő ment meg ezerszer és akkor is felemel, amikor észre sem veszed, hogy megint elestél. Ő a jól elkészített ebéd, és a tökéletesen megfestett kép. Ő a tudás, Ő a művészet, és Ő az Út, a fejlődés is.
És mi vagyunk az emberek, akik hiába is tudjuk ezt: újra és újra vagy elfelejtjük, vagy hibázunk – véletlenül vagy szándékosan de bűnt követünk el, s ezért meg kell újra és újra tisztulnunk. Tévedés ne essék: megtisztulás lehet egy őszinte beszélgetés, önzetlen segítség, bocsánatkérés, sőt megtisztító ereje lehet egyetlen mosolynak is. Az olyan gyarlóknak, mint én, néha a tengerben kell megmerítkezniük, vagy éppen a tapintatot gyakorolniuk. A balinézeknek agama tirthájuk van, a keresztényeknek szentelt vizük. Istennek pedig egyetlen csepp sós könnye: a világtenger, mely mossa-mossa földjeink koszos lábát. Ó, élet kelyhe, tenger! Bocsásd meg nekünk a szemetet és mérget, melyet e kor beléd enged. Légy kegyes e déltengeri népekhez, és ne bántsd isteneknek szentelt szigetüket se. Tisztelettel és őszinte csodálattal nézem a balinézeket, szépérzékük és áhítatuk, művészetük és üzleti érzéküket is. Még ha kissé kitudnak borítani is, ha például másfél órát kell várni a reggelire, vagy az ebédre – legalább a türelem jógáját gyakorlom. Egy mozdulattal el tudják oszlatni mérgem sötét felhőit. Áldott ez a nép és ez a sziget, és én hálával és köszönettel tartozom, hogy közöttük sétálhatok és írhatok itt és most.
Weiner Sennyey Tibor
Kapcsolódó anyag:
The Gates Open Up - Galungan and Kuningan
We have just arrived in Ubud, the capital of arts to catch the festival of Galungan and Kuningan. The former is the day when the doors between worlds open up. In the country of a million gates all earthly and heavenly passages open up this day so the spirits and ancestors can return to stay for 10 days until Kuningan, when they return and thus the gates are closed once again. So is the essence of this spiritual festivity in a nutshell but it also is essential to speak of another reason for celebration on this holy occasion and that is the victory of the Dharma over evil powers. Just as I am scribbling this down, the kind Balinese lady from our homestay is coming by to our door in order to place an offering of rice and flowers at our small house’s altar. She’s burning an incense stick and sprinkling some water from a flower’s petal while chanting a mantra quietly. Of course they do offerings more times a day as a part of their daily routine, but there is a kind of different preparation in the air, and it has been going on for many days, we can feel it everywhere, even in our dreams. A couple of days ago we were trekking in the jungle and the rice fields above Ubud, not far from Gunung Kawi, the hill of poets. Deep in the forest we saw the locals having a ritual bath in sacred fountains. The holy water: agama tirtha is one of the main important element of their religion – being the tool of cleaning or catharsis. In fact the other day in the Royal Palace of Ubud a very old, but stunningly beautiful lady, who walked down the stage like an ancient elephant sprinkled water on the musicians before the traditional dance performance would begin. So this religion, which equals Balinese life itself places water in its centre. Just before we left Hungary I became a godfather of my friend Hegyi’s son: Attila Hunor. Well, his name is not exactly Christian, more like ancient Hungarian, nevertheless holy water was still sprinkled on his forehead by a catholic priest. I took up this honourable task and the support of my friend on the condition that other religions will be appreciated too. All roads take us to the same destination, but the city of God can have other names then Rome. In fact, we all are the citizens of God’s town – should we be Balinese, Hungarian, Hindu or Christian – it doesn’t matter at all. According to his divine aspect all life is sacred, all prayers and temples holy and all faith in him true and pure. It is him, who is being worshipped in mosques, synagogues, chapels or stupas. We are all parts of him, as he is the light and life within us. The world grew out from him, we are aiming towards him and will return to him. He is Krishna of Bhagavad Gíta, Tengri of the shamans, and God of the Holy Bible. He is the Dharma and Tao, quantum physics and true poetry. His home is in pure air, true wine and fresh bread. He gives birth and takes back the dead. You can recognise him in truth and beauty, he is the one that saves you a thousand times and the one who lifts you when you don’t even realise that you’ve fallen once again. He is the most delicious food and the perfectly painted picture. He is knowledge, arts, the path and progress itself. And we are humans, who, although we know all this, we keep on forgetting it, or we make mistakes, or commit crimes by chance or purposefully and so we have to gain purity again and again. Just to get things straight: even an honest conversation can be purifying, or ones altruistic help, saying sorry to someone, but even a single smile can have the same effect. I belong to that lot of disciples who have to dive under in the sea time and time again or practice tactfulness every now and then. The Balinese have agama tirtha, Christians: holy water. And God has only one single salty teardrop: the Ocean, that washes the filthy feet of our lands. Oh womb of life: Sea! Please forgive us for all the waste and poison this era has injected into you. Please be gracious to the nations of the South Sea and do not turn from their island that belongs to the Gods either. I admire and respect the Balinese, their sense of beauty, their piety, art and sense of business too. I have to admit that sometimes they do get on my nerves: especially when we have to wait one and a half hours for our meal, ok, at least I have a chance to practice the yoga of patience. They can dissolve the dark clouds of my anger with one gesture. Blessed is this island and its nation and grateful I am indeed for being and writing here.
We have just arrived in Ubud, the capital of arts to catch the festival of Galungan and Kuningan. The former is the day when the doors between worlds open up. In the country of a million gates all earthly and heavenly passages open up this day so the spirits and ancestors can return to stay for 10 days until Kuningan, when they return and thus the gates are closed once again. So is the essence of this spiritual festivity in a nutshell but it also is essential to speak of another reason for celebration on this holy occasion and that is the victory of the Dharma over evil powers. Just as I am scribbling this down, the kind Balinese lady from our homestay is coming by to our door in order to place an offering of rice and flowers at our small house’s altar. She’s burning an incense stick and sprinkling some water from a flower’s petal while chanting a mantra quietly. Of course they do offerings more times a day as a part of their daily routine, but there is a kind of different preparation in the air, and it has been going on for many days, we can feel it everywhere, even in our dreams. A couple of days ago we were trekking in the jungle and the rice fields above Ubud, not far from Gunung Kawi, the hill of poets. Deep in the forest we saw the locals having a ritual bath in sacred fountains. The holy water: agama tirtha is one of the main important element of their religion – being the tool of cleaning or catharsis. In fact the other day in the Royal Palace of Ubud a very old, but stunningly beautiful lady, who walked down the stage like an ancient elephant sprinkled water on the musicians before the traditional dance performance would begin. So this religion, which equals Balinese life itself places water in its centre. Just before we left Hungary I became a godfather of my friend Hegyi’s son: Attila Hunor. Well, his name is not exactly Christian, more like ancient Hungarian, nevertheless holy water was still sprinkled on his forehead by a catholic priest. I took up this honourable task and the support of my friend on the condition that other religions will be appreciated too. All roads take us to the same destination, but the city of God can have other names then Rome. In fact, we all are the citizens of God’s town – should we be Balinese, Hungarian, Hindu or Christian – it doesn’t matter at all. According to his divine aspect all life is sacred, all prayers and temples holy and all faith in him true and pure. It is him, who is being worshipped in mosques, synagogues, chapels or stupas. We are all parts of him, as he is the light and life within us. The world grew out from him, we are aiming towards him and will return to him. He is Krishna of Bhagavad Gíta, Tengri of the shamans, and God of the Holy Bible. He is the Dharma and Tao, quantum physics and true poetry. His home is in pure air, true wine and fresh bread. He gives birth and takes back the dead. You can recognise him in truth and beauty, he is the one that saves you a thousand times and the one who lifts you when you don’t even realise that you’ve fallen once again. He is the most delicious food and the perfectly painted picture. He is knowledge, arts, the path and progress itself. And we are humans, who, although we know all this, we keep on forgetting it, or we make mistakes, or commit crimes by chance or purposefully and so we have to gain purity again and again. Just to get things straight: even an honest conversation can be purifying, or ones altruistic help, saying sorry to someone, but even a single smile can have the same effect. I belong to that lot of disciples who have to dive under in the sea time and time again or practice tactfulness every now and then. The Balinese have agama tirtha, Christians: holy water. And God has only one single salty teardrop: the Ocean, that washes the filthy feet of our lands. Oh womb of life: Sea! Please forgive us for all the waste and poison this era has injected into you. Please be gracious to the nations of the South Sea and do not turn from their island that belongs to the Gods either. I admire and respect the Balinese, their sense of beauty, their piety, art and sense of business too. I have to admit that sometimes they do get on my nerves: especially when we have to wait one and a half hours for our meal, ok, at least I have a chance to practice the yoga of patience. They can dissolve the dark clouds of my anger with one gesture. Blessed is this island and its nation and grateful I am indeed for being and writing here.
Tibor Sennyey Weiner
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